Few watch brands possess a history as authentic as Laco.
While many modern manufacturers take inspiration from historic military watches, Laco doesn't simply recreate aviation history—it helped create it.
As one of only five companies officially commissioned to manufacture the legendary Beobachtungsuhren (B-Uhren), or observation watches, for German military pilots during the 1940s, Laco occupies a unique place in horological history. Those original pilot watches were not fashion accessories or lifestyle products. They were precision navigation instruments, designed to be read instantly in the demanding conditions of military aviation.
More than eighty years later, that commitment to clarity, functionality and exceptional engineering continues to define every Laco watch.
Today, the German manufacturer combines its remarkable heritage with modern manufacturing techniques, contemporary materials and outstanding craftsmanship to create pilot watches that appeal equally to historians, collectors and everyday enthusiasts. From faithful recreations of historic Flieger watches to contemporary interpretations built for modern life, Laco remains one of the most respected names in German watchmaking.
At Clarindon Jewellers, we are proud to be an Official UK Retailer of Laco Watches, offering the latest collections backed by the official manufacturer warranty, expert advice and dedicated aftercare.
Whether you are purchasing your first German pilot watch or expanding an established collection, this guide explores the fascinating history of Laco, the origins of the legendary Flieger watch and the collections that continue to make Laco one of the world's most admired aviation watch brands.
The Story of Laco
The story of Laco begins in 1925, when the company was founded in Pforzheim, Germany—a city internationally recognised as the centre of German jewellery and watchmaking.
Originally established as Lacher & Co., the business quickly developed a reputation for manufacturing reliable, high-quality watches during a period of rapid innovation within the European watch industry.
By the late 1930s, aviation was becoming increasingly important, demanding timepieces capable of providing exceptional accuracy, outstanding legibility and dependable performance under demanding operational conditions.
These requirements would ultimately shape not only the future of Laco but also the history of pilot watch design itself.
The Birth of the Flieger Watch
Few watch designs are as instantly recognisable as the German Flieger.
The word Flieger simply means pilot in German, but within horology it has become synonymous with one of the most iconic military watch designs ever created.
Unlike ordinary wristwatches, the original Flieger watches were developed as professional navigation instruments.
Every design element served a practical purpose.
Large Arabic numerals ensured immediate readability.
Oversized crowns allowed operation whilst wearing gloves.
Highly luminous hands and indices enabled pilots to read the time in darkness.
Matte black dials eliminated distracting reflections inside aircraft cockpits.
There was no unnecessary decoration.
Every detail existed to support precise navigation.
This philosophy of pure functionality continues to define Laco today.
One of the Original Five B-Uhr Manufacturers
Perhaps the most remarkable aspect of Laco's history is its role as one of only five companies selected to produce the legendary Beobachtungsuhren, commonly known as B-Uhren.
The other manufacturers were:
- A. Lange & Söhne
- IWC Schaffhausen
- Stowa
- Wempe
Together, these five companies produced observation watches built to an exact military specification.
These watches measured approximately 55mm, making them significantly larger than ordinary wristwatches.
Their size allowed for exceptional legibility while accommodating highly accurate pocket watch movements capable of meeting strict navigation requirements.
Original B-Uhren featured:
- Large onion crowns.
- Hacking seconds.
- Anti-magnetic protection.
- Long leather straps worn over flight jackets.
- Extremely precise mechanical movements.
- Highly luminous cathedral-style hands.
These watches became essential instruments for aerial navigation and remain among the most collectible military watches ever produced.
Today, Laco remains one of the very few companies able to recreate these historic watches with complete authenticity.
German Watchmaking Excellence
Germany has produced some of the world's finest watches for generations.
Whilst Switzerland often dominates discussions surrounding luxury watchmaking, German manufacturers have developed a distinct philosophy centred upon engineering, functionality and precision.
Brands including A. Lange & Söhne, Nomos Glashütte, Sinn, Tutima, Damasko and Laco demonstrate that German watchmaking offers a compelling alternative to Swiss luxury.
Laco exemplifies this approach.
Rather than emphasising decorative complexity, every watch focuses on purpose.
Clear dials.
Exceptional readability.
Reliable movements.
Outstanding build quality.
It is a philosophy rooted in engineering rather than excess.
Why Collectors Love Laco
Few brands can genuinely claim authentic military heritage.
Laco can.
Collectors appreciate the brand not because it recreates historic pilot watches, but because it actually helped define the category.
Every Flieger watch produced today carries design cues that can be traced directly back to the original navigation watches manufactured during the 1940s.
For enthusiasts, that authenticity is incredibly important.
Owning a Laco means owning a direct connection to one of the most significant chapters in aviation watchmaking.
Type A vs Type B: Understanding the Legendary Flieger Dials
One of the first things enthusiasts notice when exploring Laco watches is that many models are available with either a Type A (Baumuster A) or Type B (Baumuster B) dial.
Whilst they share the same unmistakable pilot watch DNA, each was developed for a different purpose during the Second World War and continues to appeal to different collectors today.
Understanding the difference between these two historic dial layouts is an important part of appreciating Laco's heritage.
Type A (Baumuster A)
The Type A dial is the original Flieger layout introduced during the early years of military aviation.
Its design is deliberately simple.
Large Arabic numerals from 1 to 11 surround the dial, while the familiar triangle with two dots at 12 o'clock provides instant orientation. Even in darkness or turbulent conditions, pilots could immediately determine the watch's position with a quick glance.
The minute track sits around the outer edge, while bold thermally blued or luminous hands maximise visibility.
This uncluttered layout has become one of the most iconic watch designs ever created.
Today, the Type A dial remains the preferred choice for collectors who appreciate simplicity, symmetry and timeless pilot watch aesthetics.
Type B (Baumuster B)
As aerial navigation became increasingly sophisticated, navigators required even greater emphasis on minute reading.
The Type B dial was developed specifically to improve precision during navigation calculations.
Rather than displaying the hours around the outside of the dial, the outer track became dedicated entirely to the minutes, marked from 5 to 55.
The hours were relocated to a smaller inner circle displaying 1–12.
At first glance, the Type B dial appears more complex, but every element serves a practical purpose.
Navigation relied heavily upon precise minute calculations, making this arrangement significantly easier for military navigators to interpret during flight.
Today, many collectors regard the Type B dial as the quintessential military Flieger design.
Its technical appearance perfectly reflects the purpose-built nature of the original Beobachtungsuhren.
Why Laco Still Produces Both Designs
Unlike many manufacturers that reinterpret historic military watches with significant creative freedom, Laco continues to respect the original specifications.
Whether choosing a Type A or Type B model, buyers are purchasing a watch whose design can be traced directly back to authentic military instruments manufactured by Laco itself.
This historical continuity is one of the reasons Laco enjoys such respect amongst aviation enthusiasts and military watch collectors.
The Modern Laco Collections
Although its heritage remains central to the brand, Laco has successfully evolved to meet the expectations of modern collectors.
Today's catalogue combines faithful recreations of historic Flieger watches with contemporary interpretations that retain the spirit of the originals whilst incorporating modern materials, movements and manufacturing techniques.
Each collection serves a different purpose whilst remaining unmistakably Laco.
Laco Augsburg
For many enthusiasts, the Laco Augsburg is the perfect introduction to German pilot watches.
Named after the Bavarian city of Augsburg, this collection captures the essence of the original Type A Flieger in a versatile and accessible package.
Clean black dials.
Highly legible Arabic numerals.
The signature orientation triangle.
Thermally blued-style hands.
Excellent lume.
Available in a range of sizes including 39mm and 42mm, the Augsburg offers outstanding everyday wearability whilst remaining remarkably faithful to the historic military design.
It has become one of Laco's most popular collections thanks to its balance of heritage, practicality and exceptional value.
Laco Aachen
The Aachen collection shares much of the Augsburg's DNA but introduces subtle refinements that give it its own character.
Like the Augsburg, Aachen watches are available in multiple case sizes and can be specified with automatic movements, sapphire crystals and beautifully finished cases.
The collection appeals to buyers seeking an authentic German Flieger watch with understated elegance and exceptional everyday versatility.
Laco Original
For collectors seeking the closest possible connection to history, the Laco Original collection offers extraordinary authenticity.
These watches are meticulously produced to reflect the original Beobachtungsuhren specifications, incorporating many of the same dimensions, typography and proportions used during the 1940s.
Large cases.
Hand-wound movements on selected models.
Thermally blued hands.
Traditional case finishing.
Faithful dial layouts.
Many collectors consider the Original series among the finest historic pilot watch recreations available anywhere in the world.
Laco Pro
The Pro collection demonstrates how Laco has successfully modernised its historic design language.
Whilst unmistakably inspired by traditional Flieger watches, Pro models introduce contemporary materials, upgraded movements and increased opportunities for personalisation.
Buyers can often choose between:
- Case sizes
- Automatic or hand-wound movements
- Dial configurations
- Case finishes
- Strap options
- Date or no-date layouts
This flexibility allows collectors to enjoy authentic Flieger styling whilst tailoring their watch to individual preferences.
Laco Navy Watches
Although aviation remains synonymous with the Laco name, the company also produces outstanding marine-inspired timepieces.
The Navy collection draws inspiration from traditional deck watches and maritime navigation instruments, combining German precision with highly legible dial layouts and beautifully balanced proportions.
These watches appeal to enthusiasts seeking something slightly different whilst remaining true to Laco's philosophy of functional design.
Bronze, Limited Editions & Modern Innovation
Laco continues to innovate through special editions and contemporary materials.
Bronze cases have become particularly popular, developing a unique patina over time that makes every watch completely individual.
The company also produces limited editions featuring:
- Sandblasted cases
- Vintage lume
- Aged dial finishes
- Modern DLC coatings
- Titanium construction
- Contemporary colourways
These watches combine historic inspiration with modern manufacturing, ensuring the collections remain fresh whilst respecting Laco's remarkable heritage.
Built in Germany
Every Laco watch reflects the precision and engineering excellence associated with German manufacturing.
Movements are carefully regulated before leaving the factory, cases are meticulously finished and every watch undergoes rigorous inspection to ensure it meets the brand's demanding standards.
While many models utilise proven Swiss or Japanese mechanical movements, it is Laco's assembly, regulation and attention to detail that give each watch its distinctive character.
The result is exceptional reliability, impressive accuracy and the reassuring build quality that has defined German engineering for generations.